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Gianni's salted caramel in the round tub, the format the range uses for its flavoured lines rather than the wide ovals kept for vanilla, toffee and chocolate. Caramel and salt is a pairing that only became standard in the last twenty years, having arrived from French pâtisserie where salted butter caramel had been regional to Brittany for far longer. It spread quickly because it solves a problem: caramel on its own is relentlessly sweet, and salt is the only thing that cuts it without adding another flavour. The swirl is the part that matters. Distributed evenly the salt would flatten into a background, so keeping the caramel as a ribbon concentrates both it and the salt into the spoonfuls that hit it.