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Gelato isn't simply the Italian word for ice cream. It carries less fat and considerably less air, which is why it's denser on the spoon and why it's served warmer than scooped ice cream so that it stays soft. That density suits a lemon dessert. With less fat to coat the tongue, the acidity comes through more directly than it would in an ice cream, which is the whole point of building a lemon meringue around it. Meringue supplies the other half, scattered over the top rather than folded through. Whipped egg white and sugar baked dry stays crisp only until it meets moisture, which is why it sits on the surface. Made in Italy with Sicilian lemon juice.