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Häagen-Dazs says this one hasn't changed since the beginning, which for a 1960 brand is a long time to leave a recipe alone. Chocolate ice cream splits into two approaches: built on cocoa powder, or built on melted chocolate. Powder gives a cleaner, sharper flavor because it carries no extra fat. Chocolate brings cocoa butter along, and that fat coats the mouth and slows everything down. Either way it's the flavor that most rewards low overrun. Air dilutes cocoa the way it dilutes everything, and a chocolate whipped full of it tastes thin where a vanilla might get away with it.