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The cookie has three jobs at once: show against a white base, stay crisp for the life of the tub, and bring enough bitterness that the whole thing isn't sugar against sugar. A dark chocolate cookie is one of the few things that manages all three. Crumb size is what separates one version from another. Ground too fine and it grays the ice cream into something muddy; left too large and the pieces take on water and soften in the middle before anyone reaches them. The flavor is younger than it feels, spreading through American freezers in the late 1970s and early 1980s, which makes it a newcomer next to the three Häagen-Dazs started with.