

Folded into a triangle and grilled flat, a flour tortilla holds seasoned beef, warm nacho cheese sauce, and crunchy red tortilla strips, then gets pressed until the outside picks up some color and a lightly crisp surface. The shape is part of the point here, since it keeps the filling centered and turns the whole thing into a handheld package. It sits in the long line of grilled handhelds, closer in format to a flat pocket than a burrito or taco. Inside, the beef is crumbly, the cheese sauce stays soft, and the red strips are there for a little snap.

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